Many homeowners revel in the glory of their garden in spring, only to be disappointed when plants start to dry out and look stressed in the heat of summer. The natural reaction is to pour more water into the garden to "moisturize" the plants. This in turn can lead to root rot and/or the continuous lowering of soil temperature to the point that plants aren't stimulated to grow — or just plain die (overwatering is one of the main causes of plant death). But these problems can be greatly reduced or, in many cases, prevented by summer mulching.

The goal of summer mulching is not only to reduce summer heat stress on plants, but to create an environment for plants that will be conducive to good growth. Mulch is to a garden what a roof is to your home. We couldn't heat or air condition the home without the roof. The same seasonal temperature variance occurs in your garden. A 3" layer of mulch not only retains moisture in the soil but it maintains a cooler temperature in the summer and a warmer temperature in the winter.

Mulching also brings many other benefits to the garden. It gives the garden a tidier appearance, and greatly improves the growing conditions for plants. Mulch helps suppress weeds and helps to conserve moisture. It creates an environment where earthworms can thrive and enhance the soil's condition. Nature provides this for us in natural settings and when we apply mulch to our garden, we mimic what is naturally done on the forest floor.

The strategy is to stimulate the growth of good soil bacteria which in turn digest plant foods that the plant will recognize as nutrients and absorb. By keeping moisture in the soil you will attract earthworms and beneficial microbes and bacteria. The earthworms loosen up the soil easing compaction, and the beneficial microbes help digest nutrients more efficiently making them more readily available to the plants. Maintaining "moist" soil as opposed to "wet" soil keeps the temperature of the soil at a more consistent level for optimum growth. Mulch also provides a blanket to the soil that protects against the crusting effect that happens as a result of watering or rain. Organic mulches decompose and add humus to the soil.

The method is to spread a 2" inch layer of mulch or bark over the top of the native soil before the heat of summer hits. There are many mulching materials available. Color, particle size, and nutrient exchange are considerations when choosing your material. While decorative barks are attractive, they can become a home for insects and they will drag nitrogen from your soil. Non-organic decorative mulches (rock and such) may be an attractive addition in gardens but give nothing back to the soil and can also be a hiding place for pests. We recommend organics, such as G & B Soil Building Compost or Kellogg's Gromulch for a good feeding mulch, and a natural top-dressing, such as Cocoa Mulch, to top-dress plants.

When mulching is incorporated with a good organic fertilizing program, the plants in your garden will not only survive the stress of summer, but will thrive in it. A good rule of thumb for mulch is to apply it at least 1-1/2 inches and up to 3 inches in depth. Mulch should never be placed right up against the stem of the plant or trunk of the tree.

In addition to all of the cultural advantages created by mulching, you will also give your garden a more "finished" look, adding to its overall beauty.

A weed is any plant growing where you don't want it to be. That can include flowers too!

Why weeds are a problem:

They are aggressive, look bad and crowd out desirable plants. Some are toxic and attract pests as well. This month we will get some hints about how to remove them.

Annual weeds are like annual flowers. Their life cycle is complete when the flowers go to seed. Removal when they are young, before they go to seed, will be much more successful.

Since many prefer to grow organically, myself included, perennial weeds are more of a problem. If you remove them, roots and all, when they are young you can eventually get rid of them. If they have a tap root get it all or they'll be back! Dandelion and stinging nettle, for example, have taproots.

Getting to know weeds takes some skill. Most garden books have photos and descriptions. The best way if you're not sure is to bring a sample in for us to see. Our nursery professionals are trained in plant and weed identification. If you feel you must resort to chemicals, please bring in the weed(s) involved and talk to a nursery professional to ensure you have the right product for the job.

Some favorite flowers can become weeds if their growth becomes out of control. Vines are an example, especially the beautiful morning glory vine. They can choke out their neighbors — but are so beautiful they're worth the trouble. Just keep an eye on them if they start getting carried away. Be prepared to do a little clipping and guiding. They're great for covering old fences, sheds and tree stumps. Perennial morning glories are best; the annual types drop lots of seeds.

And some plants that are normally considered weeds have their uses! Consider clover. Although it is thought of as a weed in your lawn, it works great as a "cover crop" for a bare spot to enrich the soil. When you turn it in, it has nitrogen fixing qualities. And purslane is considered a weed, but it is edible! You might want to consider transplanting some of your weeds instead of getting rid of them completely.

Fighting back against weeds:

Weeds are seasonal, just like some insect pests. Sometimes the time of year gives a clue to their identification. In the summertime, for instance, you will see purslane and spurge. These are annuals — hoeing, mulching and hand picking (before they go to seed) are usually successful. Hint — if you're turning your soil, don't go too deep or you may bring up dormant weed seeds to the surface.

Seeds need moisture and warmth (the sun) to sprout. so a good thick mulch will do much to prevent weeds. Or you can pick weeds when they are small and, with a little elbow grease, you may be able to avoid chemical control. But be sure to get the roots — or they will be back. We also carry many effective herbicides — but if you are unsure of what weed(s) you are fighting, please talk with our professionals before using one. The wrong choice will not work as effectively (or at all) and may harm desirable plants.