By Clayton Smith

DIVISION Tracheophyta

CLASS Angiospermae

Have you ever really looked at a seed? Torn it open and look at the miniature plant hidden within? Have you wondered just what it took for that seed to germinate? Probably not, so this is my chance to fill you in and show you the wonder that is the SEED.

By definition a seed is a complete and complex plant, formed from the fertilization of an egg fertilized in the pistil of a flower. As the egg grows, it becomes the embryo of the seed. The embryo consists of a leaf or leaves, roots and stems. Included in the seed is a food source high in carbohydrates, stored in either the endosperm (a kind of a sac for the carbohydrates) or the primary (cotyledons) leaf of the seed. Whichever source the carbohydrates is stored in, it is a source of food that the embryo can draw from. Enclosing all of this is the seed coat, which can have a papery coating or, as in most plants, a very hard coating, making it impermeable to water.

Class Angiospermae is the class that all seed plants are found in. From there two subclasses are found: Dicotyledoneae, plants that are formed from two primary leaves (cotyledons) and make up most of the broadleaf plants found on this planet, and monocotyledneae, or one primary leaf; this group are known as the grasses. Between these two subclasses over 240,000 species of plants are found.

Now let's look at how a seed germinates. The name that is given to the process from embryo to germination is embryogenesis. Germination is actually the resumption of growth, as the seeds are in a realm of dormancy prior to the advent of certain factors — both external and internal — that trigger the rapid and sudden growth of the seed. The external factors that are most important to seed germination are water, oxygen and temperature — and of all of these, water is by far the most important. Seeds are very dehydrated, containing only 5 to 25 percent water; therefore, water is needed to re-hydrate the seed, making the food source usable by the embryo. Most plants germinate with an optimum temperature between 77° F and 86° F. Some plants, however, can germinate with a maximum high of 115° F to a low of 40° F.

During this time of re-hydration and temperature optimization, enzymes (within the embryo) become active and start to work. Respiration is turned on (this is where oxygen is needed), metabolic processes start and the embryo actively grows.

When the embryo grows and germination takes place, the first plant structure to emerge is the primary root. The root takes in water, swells, anchors itself to the soil substrate, and starts to develop secondary and lateral roots. From these lateral roots, more lateral roots are formed and the plant starts to take hold. Right after the primary root anchorage, the plant shoot starts elongating and emerges from the seed. In most seeds the shoot arches up through the soil thus protecting the sensitive primary, or cotyledon leaves. Once the cotyledon breaks through the soil, with help of the shoot, it then straightens itself out and starts to unfold to take in the sun. When the stored food in the cotyledon is used up, it starts to swivel up, drops off and the new secondary leaves form and start to photosynthesize. At this point the plant is on its own, taking in what it can from the surrounding environment.

Some seeds need a little help with their germination in the guise of environmental factors, while some seeds need longer periods of dormancy in order to germinate. There are even some seeds, mostly of parasitic plants, that need the presence of enzymes found within their host plants in order to start the germination process. This way they insure their survival by only germinating when their food source is around.

Some seeds need processes called stratification or scarification in order to germinate. Stratification is the environmental stimulation of holding soil temperatures at just above freezing for a period of time that depends on the species of the plant. By artificially stimulating the seed you are mimicking the natural forces that take place on the seeds in its natural environment. Scarification is artificially scarring or breaking the seed coat to cause a rapid intake of water in order to germinate. Some seeds, such as stone fruits, have a very hard seed coating and take many months if not years for water to penetrate and break down the seed covering.

There are some seeds that even need a fire in order to germinate. And beyond that, even more specialized requirements are needed by some species of plants and seeds.

Seeds can range from the size of dust particles, like orchid and petunia seeds, to the world's largest seed, the giant fan palm or coco-de-mer palm (Lodoicea maldivica), weighing in at 44 lbs. and found on the Seychelles Islands in the Indian Ocean.

So, as you can see, there is much more than meets the eye when you are looking at a 'lowly' seed.

• Kills broadleaf weeds in most lawn grasses at cooler temperature ranges.
• Controls dandelion, clover, henbit and 45 other listed weeds.
• May be used as spot treatment for trouble areas or as a broadcast spray over the entire lawn.
• Contains Trimec®.
• Available in pint and quart bottles.
  

• When purchasing edible flowers, make sure they have been organically sprayed. You do not want to eat them if they've been sprayed with pesticides. Do not use flowers from a florist for cooking.

• Pick herbs and flower blossoms in the morning, just after the dew has dried and before the heat of the day has made them limp.

• When herbs begin to blossom, the flavor of the herb itself often starts to fade. Keep some plants well cut for their leaves (such as basil), and allow others to flower if you want to use the blossoms. Harvest buds and blossoms to prevent plants from bolting or going to seed.

• Both flowers and herbs should be gently washed and well dried before use.

• Large flower blossoms, unless you are stuffing them, should be cut into slivers for easier eating and a more pleasant texture. Remove the stems of the flower, and the stamen if it is large or tough.

• Fresh herbs contain volatile oils that are easily cooked out. Add them toward the end of cooking time (about the last ten minutes or so).

• Variety in planting your herb garden translates to variety on the dinner table. Experiment with different herbs and flowers from the same species and you'll be rewarded with a full range of tastes and colors.

By Tamara Galbraith

The Red Hot Poker plant (Kniphofia uvaria), also known as the Tritoma or Torch Lily, will certainly stoke the fires in your garden and in the hearts of fellow gardeners. It's relatively easy to grow too. These spikey, upright sun lovers provide lots of drama and architectural interest, so make sure they are used where they can be seen.

The multi-colored flower spikes will reach 2-5 feet in height, depending on the variety. Flower color ranges from ivory and orange to coral red.

Torch lilies require full sun and are relatively drought tolerant once established, but be sure to provide adequate spacing and good drainage, although these plants are more forgiving of poor soil (even icky clay) than most.

A favorite of hummingbirds, Kniphofias are hardy in USDA zones 5-10. Frequent deadheading of fading flower spikes will promote more bloom.

Be sure not to plant too deeply; keep the crown about even with the soil level. After first frost, cut the foliage to the ground and cover with mulch such as Gardner & Bloome Soil Building Compost, if your area is prone to cold winters; this torch doesn't stay hot all the time!

Steamed sponge for dinner? Sounds crazy? We're talking about Luffa cylindrica, an exotic plant that's been around for over a thousand years. It's also known as a dishcloth or rag gourd, and sometimes called Chinese okra (the spelling also varies — luffa, loofa, loufa, or loofah). In varying shades of tan, round and about a foot long, it looks like — and works like — a sponge. Only it beats any of the synthetics for scrubbing — whether scrubbing dishes, your car, or people. It seems to have just the right texture, leaving skin with a nice clean, tingly feeling.

Luffa plants are less hardy than cucumbers or squash and should not be planted until you are sure there will be no more frost. To gain time, you can soak the small, flat black seeds overnight, then plant two or three in individual 3" or 4" pots. Keep them in a protected place. As soon as they germinate, get them into the light and keep them well-watered. When they have grown to about two inches, thin to the most sturdy-looking plant.

When seedlings are about three inches or so high, you can transplant. Water thoroughly the night before, and plant on a cloudy day or in the evening. Shade them from the sun for a couple of days — don't let them dry out. Like cucumbers, they like a light soil, well supplied with humus and nitrogen. If you have a heavy soil, amend with Kellogg Amend before planting. Fertilize with Dr. Earth Liquid Solution 3-3-3 and — later on — fish emulsion.

Plant about a foot apart. Luffa is a vine, growing to 15 feet or more, and needs a trellis or fence or enough space to wander in. It's a pretty plant with lemon-yellow flowers followed by light-green fruits looking something like zucchini. They are edible only when immature, so if you want to try them for eating, pick young ones. Cook them as you would zucchini. Keep the ones you intend to use for sponges off the ground with boards, a trellis, or something else that will keep them dry.

When the stem turns yellow, it's time to harvest the sponges. Dry them for a couple of weeks until the skin hardens and turns brown. Pick off the big end and you can shake out the seeds — like those of a watermelon. Soak the sponges in water overnight and the outer skin will peel off without much trouble. Let them stand in the sun to dry.