By S. & C. Tollison

Whether you are computer savvy or always calling tech support, dill will provide all the "megabites" that you need. You will find many uses when you order dill:
•Unique floral bouquets
•Spring and fall flavor sensations
•Victory fashions (please read on...)

The lacy yellow flowers that bloom from dill make a pretty addition to any garden. Its tall stalks of bright green feathery leaves grow from 3-4 feet tall and 1 1/2 feet wide, so remember to consider size when planting. Dill needs full sun, plentiful moisture and rich well-drained acidic soil. Use a good amendment like Gardner & Bloome Acid Planting Mix.

Dill is delicate but versatile for uses in summery floral arrangements. With such tall flower stalks, its versatility is enhanced.

You can use dill for pickling, soups and breads. Let your imagination run wild. Dill is best used when fresh as it loses its flavor once dried; however, freeze-dried dill leaves preserve their flavor well for a few months.

Victory fashions you ask? Well if you are Greek, Roman or on your way to a toga party....consider the fact that the Greek and Roman warriors wore dill garlands to celebrate their homecomings from battle.

To sum it all up, dill is a great addition to your garden because it's beautiful, versatile, and celebratory. So...you gotta get a dill!

By Tamara Galbraith

For the milder parts of the U.S. (USDA Zones 7-11), September is the prime time for planting wildflower seeds in the garden. The mild temperatures of fall allow the seeds to germinate, develop a good root system, then go dormant until spring.

(Northern gardeners can also plant wildflower seeds in the fall, but not much will happen if the soil temperature is below 70F. So, better to wait until about mid-April.)

Here are a few basic pointers for preparing a wildflower bed in any part of the country:

1. Select an area that drains well, but doesn't have overly rich soil.
2. Remove any existing vegetation.
3. Rake the soil only to a depth of about an inch.
4. Mix one part wildflower seeds with four parts sand. Broadcast the seeds over the new bed, first one way, then the other (i.e., north-south, then east-west).
5. Walk over the bed to press the seed into the soil, but do not cover the seeds more than 1/16".
6. Water lightly and frequently if you don't get adequate rain through the autumn.

In most cases, the less fuss you make over wildflowers, the better they'll grow. Think about where you usually see them in springtime: highway medians, cracks in the sidewalk, etc.

In fact, the worst thing you can do to your wildflowers is overwater and/or fertilize. While a sprinkling of compost is certainly welcome to any plant, wildflowers are tough and they like to prove it...and come springtime, with a little preparation, they'll do just that.

By Tamara Galbraith

I recently ordered an absolutely obnoxious amount of Louisiana irises for fall planting and, while reading about their care, I was caught by the phrase "prefers slightly acid soil."

Guess what? The soil in my area is notoriously alkaline. So how will I go about lowering the soil's pH to make it a little more acidic in the bed where my Louisianas will live?

Well, there are several additives that can be mixed into the existing soil to lower pH. Sulfur, in the form of ground rock sulfur, is a good choice. Very little - as in about 1/4 cup - is needed per square yard to lower the pH a full point, so be sure to test your soil first. Mix powdered sulfur into the top three inches of soil before planting.

Coarse peat moss is another amendment often recommended for raising acidity. Two things about peat moss, however: it is of no nutritional benefit to the soil, and when dry, it can form a crust that actually repels water.

Watering-in certain acid-containing liquids can also help. A handful (about 1 oz.) of Epsom salts dissolved in a gallon of water works well, as does 1 cup regular apple cider vinegar per gallon of water.

In the end, the best method is, of course, the more natural one. Sawdust, chopped leaves, and pine needles, especially, are wonderful, nutritious sources that can be added to soil for your acid-preferring plants, like azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries and yes, Louisiana irises.

By Tamara Galbraith

For much of the country, mid-September is about the right time for planting spring-flowering bulbs. Generally, you should shoot for six weeks before your area gets really hard frosts, whenever that tends to be.

In warmer climates like the South and in Southern California, bulbs should be kept in the refrigerator for about two months, starting in mid-September, to give them an adequate chill period. You can use the fridge's veggie drawer/compartment, but keep bulbs away from ripening fruit; many fruits emit a gas that will ruin bulbs.

Studies conducted in Northern California seemed to indicate that chilling did little for the success of tulip bulbs in that area, however. And there are some small tulip species, like Tulipa bakeri and T. saxatilis, that do not require chilling and will naturalize, meaning they return year after year. When in doubt, ask your local nursery expert for advice.

If you live in a warm area and decide to go the chilled-bulb route, planting over Thanksgiving weekend is an ideal time - plus it's a nice way to work off those extra helpings of mashed potatoes and pecan pie you probably had.

Summer's blast of heat can make even the hardiest of shrubs look brown, tired, and just plain ugly.

Now is the time to give your bushes a hair cut. Trimming the ends of the plant encourages new lush, green growth. Be certain to remove any brown, dead branches to open up the space and help the plant fill in the voids.

Ground covers, such as ivy, will also benefit from a trimming.

Within weeks, new growth will appear, giving a fresh green look.