By Tamara Galbraith

Is it the fiery red bloom color or the bold architectural flower shape that gave Sprekelia formosissima its common name of Aztec Lily? In truth, it's really more of a Mexican amaryllis. Whatever the case, gardeners will call it "gorgeous."

Sprekelia, sometimes also called Jacobean lily or St. James lily, is a warm season bulb that should be planted in the spring. Give it well-draining soil with several hours of morning- to early-afternoon sun, and the daffodil-like foliage will emerge quickly, followed by large scarlet blooms that rival the most impossibly perfect orchids. Like orchids, these plants do not like to be kept soggy. In fact, Sprekelia's Mexican origin ensures it to be fairly drought tolerant once established.

Generally, you will see beautiful blooms in early April through May; and after a brief break during the hottest part of the summer, Sprekelia usually returns for a second show in fall.

Sprekelia bulbs are hardy only in Zones 9-11, but can survive in Zone 8 with a covering of mulch during the winter as long as conditions remain fairly dry. Gardeners farther north should dig up the bulbs in the fall and store them in dry peat in the garage.

If you do leave Sprekelia in the ground, the plants will eventually multiply into a clump, so allow for some elbow room when setting out the bulbs. You'll definitely want this one to be seen and appreciated!

Beans, full of: High-spirited or frisky, originally applied to farm animals fed largely on beans and thought to be livelier than others.

Beans, hill of: What something of no value isn’t worth. A ”hill” of beans is a planting of four seeds or so around the base of a pole. A great many such hills will yield an appreciable food supply or cash crop, but an individual hill doesn’t amount to much.

Beans, spill the: To confess or yield evidence that incriminates oneself or others. Probably from a metaphor for the ‘v’ word or throwing up.

Beans are “money” in several languages and symbolize money in many rituals, and for people who are flat broke “haven’t got a bean.”.
(All taken from The Eaten Word by Jay Jacobs)

Wow, and you thought that the bean was this long (green or brown) vegetable grown in your garden.

You know what is cool about growing green beans, other than they are the best of the best in the world…the fact that their roots are nitrogen-fixing, which improves your soil fertility.

Most commonly grown are either bush (Phaseolus nanus) or pole green beans (P. vulgaris). There are several bush bean varieties, but most often you won’t see the little 6 pack labeled any further than the descriptor ‘bush.’ That is true of pole beans too. Seed packs, of course, will tell you the variety and planting times.

Planting time is after your last frost and when air temperatures are at least 65+. For growth and germination, 65-85 degrees is what you will want. Starting green beans from seed is quite simple. Once they have germinated and grown to 5-6 inches (and if your temperatures are as mentioned), plop them into the ground and watch them grow.

Beans need plenty of sunlight and regular watering. To keep down weeds surrounding your plants, remember to mulch. You might want to plant successive crops of beans in the same location as your first crops, especially the bush beans. This will ensure your bean crop from summer into the fall.

Pole beans need a structure to grow (twine) upon. There are numerous structures that are successful favorite ways to support pole beans, one of which is on wooden or bamboo teepees.

You can take three 1x1 inch stakes (6 feet or longer) and drill one hole through all three at one end. A large screw bolt is inserted through the three hole and a butterfly nut tightens them together. That's it! Simple. Equally elegant is tying together three 6-8 foot bamboo stakes and forming the same type of teepee.

Plant at least 3 bean plants at the base of each of the three teepee legs, too, so there will be at a minimum 9 bean plants per teepee. You can also add a stake between the teepees, interconnecting them, to give the bean plants further growth support, once their height has exceeded the teepee stake heights.

Our wooden trellis structures will also work perfectly for the pole beans. Hammer a 5-6 foot 2x2 inch stake into the ground. Hammer a second one into the ground at the opposite end of your trellis. This provides about a 5-6 foot long vertical trellis structure for your beans. This looks great and is a fabulous way to grow beans as well. Leave space on both sides of this structure, so that you can access all the beans.

We mentioned the nitrogen-fixing roots as a quality other vegetables just cannot offer. But don’t forget, just the ability of going out into your veggie garden at dinner time and hand picking beans for immediate consumption … well, there is just nothing better that that.

P.S. By the way, the history of beans is tied to corn and squash. “In Iroquois mythology, corn, beans and squash were represented as three inseparable sisters."* They planted into one mound, seeds of maize, later beans and finally squash, because all three were eaten together.

*Much Depends on Dinner by Margaret Visser

There is just not much good one can say about thrips. They attack ornamental landscape plants, spread viruses, and simply make the foliage ugly and your plant sicker than it was. Many pests "move in" and make themselves at home when the health of a plant is poor. Thrips are no exception. In fact, they are most likely to attack a plant that is too dried out--especially if the foliage is dirty.

Thrips are microscopic and look like elongated black flies. They may be tiny, but the damage that they cause is not. And that damage is quite characteristic, and easily identified. The foliage becomes silvery or bronze and stippled, because thrips are both chewers and suckers. There can be a blackish deposit from their presence, and often the plant will develop sooty mold as well.

The natural predators to thrips include parasitoid wasps, soldier beetles, and green lacewings and their larvae. Spraying with insecticidal soaps can also help. If their presence is minimal, cut, remove, and destroy the infested foliage.

In severe cases, other insecticides can be used to treat an infected plant. Talk to one of our salespeople to determine not only the right product but also the right time in the season for treatment.

Remember--during hot, dry weather, one of your best protections is to make sure your plants have the appropriate amount of water and fertilizers to keep them healthy.

The term "soil" is commonly used by all of us. However, we think that the average interpretation and understanding of the word "soil " are highly variable. "How about a primer on soils?" customers have asked. We agree.

"Soil: the top layer of the earth's surface, suitable for the growth of plant life." Well, that doesn't really help much, no thanks to the dictionary.

So what is soil? It is former rocks, seashells, critters, plants, water and air.

In a more classic sense, soil is made up of minerals, air, water and organic materials. The percent of each of the components present in our soil is demonstrated in this pie chart.

The Organics: A Small but Mighty Contribution

There is a soil food web: a large community of plants and organisms, each of which contributes to making our soil healthy. Plants photosynthesize, fix carbon dioxide and release oxygen, that stuff we need to breathe with. Plants decompose and add organic matter to the soil.

Decomposers (bacteria and fungi) help to break down the organic material and make it available to plants and animals. Bacterial and fungal feeders (nematodes and tiny arthropods, etc.) control many diseases and pests in the soil. Shredders, such as the earthworm, shred the plant litter. Earthworms enhance the soil structure (with earthworm castings and by aerating the soil) as they produce fecal pellets (aka: poop) and burrow in the soil. There are even above ground level predators such as mice, shrews, birds and others, feeding upon some of these subterranean creatures.

So as you may not have imagined, the soil is a living place for many--and a highly complex community at that. In addition, it is an important ecosystem that we humans, gardeners and non-gardeners, need to understand, protect and keep healthy. You cannot keep all of these creatures alive and well by over-spraying with herbicides and pesticides. There must be a balance, of course.

The Minerals

The mineral composition of your soil will vary depending upon your geographical location. This portion comes from the rocks and shells deposited long, long ago. There can even be variation on your own little plot of land, sometimes within just a few feet. The native mineral composition may be mixed or covered over by topsoil from another location that was brought in during the building of the house. How can you know if you have different types of soil on your property?

There are several simple tests that you can do at home. One is collecting small scoops of soil from different areas of your yard, especially if you suspect that you have a variation. Note the color of the soil while wet. Let it dry out. Note the color. If the soil color when wet and the color when dry is different in each location, then you may have different soil composition. Will that matter to how your plants grow? Probably not. But if one area in your garden is a problem, perhaps that is a good area to sample and send off to the county soil testing lab.

Do you have sand, silt or clay soil? And how much organic material is in your soil? You can answer that with another simple test. This one is fun to do with your children.

Get a clear, straight-sided jar with lid. Fill it about 3/4 full of soil from one location in your yard. Add water to within 1 inch of the top of the jar. Add about 4 teaspoons of Calgon (or a like product). Tighten the lid. Mix for 20 minutes (rotating the jar 180 degrees to fully mix). Set the bottle down and follow the time line below:

1. After 40 seconds, mark the sediment level of what has reached the bottom.
2. This is the sand layer, made up of the heaviest mineral particles.
3. After 30 minutes, mark the next sediment level. This is the silt layer.
4. The next day, mark the 3^rd layer. This is the clay layer, made up of the lightest mineral particles.

At the end of this test, you will see layers of soil in your jar. They may not be equal. You might not see any sand, just all silt and/or clay or vice versa. Another layer that may appear on top of the clay layer, if you are lucky(!), is the organic layer.

You may already have a sense of what your soil type is by the ease or difficulty in digging in the garden. Clay soil, especially un-amended clay soil, is hard to dig in. Sandy soil, of course, is not hard to dig, but the hole that you are digging keeps refilling as the sand pours back with each shovel removal.

The Water

You can purchase water measurement probes at your garden center to measure the water content of your soil. What they really measure is the electrical conductivity of the soil, which in turn is translated to a moisture factor. Or you can simply look at your soil. If you have sandy soil and it rapidly sifts through your fingers, it is probably a bit dry. If you have clay soil and you can see cracks like the San Andreas Fault, it is probably too dry. Conversely, you never want your soil, sandy or clay, to be super-saturated with water, which would be demonstrated by a site that has standing water all of the time.

The Air

The amount of air space in your soil is controlled by everything described above. It is dependent upon the type of mineral composition, the amount of organic material, and the amount of water. Too much water, too few minerals (as in lots of clay particles) with no organic material would not allow any room for air. What is a solution for this? Amend your soil.

In fact, in the end, one of the best solutions to contribute to the health of your soil is to mulch, mulch, mulch! As the organic mulch material decomposes, it provides a "home" and food source for microorganisms, fungi, bacteria, earthworms, and so on and so on. Encouraging this healthy ecosystem to thrive will build healthy soil in your garden. How simple is that?